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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.